Acclimation

Originally Written : May 21, 2010

I spent much of the day exploring the shopping and residential districts of Cochin.  Although extremely dense and diverse, Cochin is home to a population of people who can all be easily characterized by a jovial, yet reserved, attitude, friendly nature, excessive curiosity into other people’s business, and fact-paced speech of their native tongue, Malayalam.  People from Kerala, often referred to as Malayalys, all speak Malayalam, one of the four main languages of South India.

For clarification, India is home to 22 officially recognized languages and over 1000 different dialects.  In general, each state has adopted its own language and although Hindi is known by a majority of North Indians, it does not serve as the national language because South Indian languages hold very little resemblance to the Hindi language.  Although India gained its independence more than 60 years ago, English has still persisted as a common national language, being taught in all schools and universities.   Consequently, travel for a foreigner in India is often quite easy considering the prospect of English-speaking Indians in almost any region of the country.  Kerala was the first state in India to obtain 100% literacy and is most widely known around the world as “God’s Own Country” because of its pristine landscapes and epic vistas.

As I wandered down Mahatma Gandhi Road (often the main avenue in most major cities in India and almost exclusively referred to as MG Road), I was again taken-aback by the shear amount of signage, storefronts, people, and vehicles inhabiting the streetscape.  The sheer density and diversity of stores and actions was much different than what I was used to.  As I perused the various clothing stores, coffee shops and photo labs, I tested my Malayalam abilities, often asking for the wrong item or misunderstanding the price.  Although I understand the language very well when someone is speaking to me, I often find it very difficult to formulate coherent sentences of my own.  Thankfully, I have the luxury of reverting to English when all else fails.

After a bit more window shopping and tasting of some street-side samosas, I decided to pick up a cell phone.  Referred to as a mobile (accent on the second syllable) in India, cell phones are as common as curry.  Everyone, even beggars on the street, have mobile phones and many Indians even carry several at a time.  Thousands of cutting-edge phones are available at extremely cheap prices and all are loaded with pre-paid minutes, so there is no need for a contract.  As a result, service is supposedly very good and is even available in the most remote areas of the mountains and jungles.  After a quick phone call home to the states, I head back to my grandfather’s house for some lunch and tea.

My grandfather’s house, like all architecture In India, is completely constructed of concrete and masonry blocks.  Indians have been using masonry and stone to construct their homes and other structures for thousands of years because of its availability and thermal massing qualities.  Most buildings can maintain relatively cool temperatures inside even when the temperatures outside begin to exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  Most buildings, except for most recently constructed ones, are all naturally ventilated with very little delineation between inside and out.  Circulation is often outside and most buildings are highly articulated with apertures and windows to allow in fresh air and encourage ventilation.  Consequently, almost every building suffers from humidity and moisture problems.

The humidity is not the only problem, however, when it comes time to sleep.  Cochin seems to be a city that never sleeps and there is noise of traffic, horns, and dogs throughout the night.  I am finding it difficult to rest but then again, I may just be suffering from the jetlag.  Tomorrow I head for Kottayam, a much more rural region of Kerala where perhaps I may find a bit more serenity. 

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