A Backwater Paradise

Originally Written : May 24, 2010

Today I find myself 60 km outside of Cochin in the small villagetown of Puthuppally. A few kilometers from the town of Kottayam, Puthupally is home to families and farmers who have lived here for many, many generations and have remained quite true to their unique way of life.  Although a bit more primitive than the larger cities, the town boasts its share of commodities, including a cell phone store, bakeries, and even two large churches, built by competing Christian factions.  Although considered a rural town, the density of houses and shops along the road is almost overwhelming. Driving from the city of Cochin to Puthappally, I did not see a single stretch of undeveloped land along the road; it is like driving along an endlessly continuous strip mall of storefronts and homes.

Watch the passing urban landscape



Still used in modern construction, the traditional Kerala-style house is built of wood and concrete with a distinctive clay-tiled, pitched roof, which bodes similarity to ancient Chinese forms. Many Indian historians and local stories suggest that much of the Indian’s early technology, construction techniques, and daily traditions were brought by the Chinese several hundred years ago. The easily identifiable Kerala-style house serves several pragmatic functions which are still relevant today. The core of the house was always an enclosed storeroom constructed of coconut wood for storage of grains and food, both for the family and for the livestock.  The room was insulated by a crawl space below and an attic above, allowing air to move freely so that the grains did not go bad. The other living spaces then surrounded this store room, always adjacent to the outside and at least one outdoor porch or terrace.  There is very small delineation between indoors and outdoors, allowing occupants and ventilation to move in and out freely. The clay-tiled roof serves as a thermal mass and the distinct pitches on either end encourage air to move through the attic, pulling warm out of the house.

For the past few days, I have enjoyed the pace of life here, where there is not much that can dictate a sense of urgency or concern. One day, my uncle even told me, “There are no rules in Puthappally. Here, you do what you want when you want.” Each day, I wake up easily before the sun rises, energized by the simplicity and novelty of the place. I’ve spent much of my time wandering close to the waters, exploring the farms, and taking the opportunity to thoroughly relax. Yesterday, I visited an old palace, built by a once wealthy Maharaja of Kerala which sat atop a large hill. The palace had an impressive procession and landscaping that added to the dramatic siting of the palace itself. The palace further emphasized my observation that procession, symbol, and landscaping are very important to the Indian way of life.


Tonight I am sitting on the front porch, enjoying the luxury of a cool glass of mango juice and wifi as I watch an Indian summer sunset.  I do not know if I can bring myself to leave this place in a few short weeks.

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